To a Life on the Ocean’s Wave
David Barnett owned a small shipping company in London. In 1994 he bought a 42ft yacht, “Happy Dancer”. For the next five summers he spent all his free time cruising the UK and Europe but had the boat laid up during the winter. Not maximum usage for a large investment!
Earlier in David’s career he had lived and worked in the Bahamas. Since returning to the UK he planned that one day he would make a return voyage in his own boat to visit friends and at the same time cruise the Caribbean Islands. This remained a dream until one day a lifelong friend, the same age as David, collapsed and died after an exercise workout.
David Barnett:
This, above all else, made me realise just how thin the thread of life really is and that my dream should be converted into reality kinda pronto!!
My thoughts at this time were about the improvements I would have to make to Happy Dancer to make her seaworthy for the Atlantic crossing and also the work involved clearing out my apartment in Surrey for letting.
During the 98/99 winter I worked on the boat in Brighton Marina. Surprisingly, despite the cold, I enjoyed this time and made some good friends. By May 99 she was ready and in August I finally sailed from Plymouth bound for Gibraltar. I say Gibraltar because that is what I told everyone just in case I wasn’t happy with the cruising life!!
My thoughts on leaving Plymouth were mainly about the weather in the Bay of Biscay. I did not have the sense of embarking on a great adventure Capt Cook style! Although beating out of the English Channel it did strike me that I was taking the same route as Lord Nelson and the great sailing ships of his day – though I hasten to add that I was not comparing myself in any way shape or form with the great man!!
In the event, the Bay of Biscay crossing was uneventful and after stops at Bayona and Lisbon I arrived at Gibraltar. For the next couple of months I lived the dream sailing the Med, enjoying the freedom, sun and sparkling waters whilst finally deciding if the cruising life was really for me.
It was. So I returned to Gibraltar, took on stores for my voyage to the Caribbean, via the Canary Islands. I remember that the passage from Gibraltar to the Canaries was good with some nice winds. In Las Palmas there were about 200 sailing boats preparing to sail across to St Lucia with the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers). This is a yearly event and a great party atmosphere prevailed. Some friends joined me as crew for the journey. We joined the celebrations, revelling in the atmosphere and met some great people.
Rather than joining the race, the decision was made to sail alone and in peace.
The voyage to St Lucia was slow due to the lack of wind. One of the crew was seasick on a daily basis and as I was worried about his deteriorating health. I contacted another yacht with a doctor on board. I followed the doctor’s advice and apart, from losing a lot of weight, he quickly recovered on arrival in St Lucia.
Blue Sky, White Sand, Crystal Clear Water
My sail through the Caribbean was a fantastic experience. My main memories are of the local people I met who were almost always friendly and had the time to talk and laugh. I have vivid memories of their colourful clothes, the blue skies, white sand beaches, good sailing breezes, crystal clear waters – particularly in the Bahamas – the magnificent sunsets viewed while sipping a rum and coke with friends around me, the beach barbeques . . . I could go on and on but I think you get the drift!
My favourite Island? It has to be St John’s where I lost my heart to a beautiful lady but had to move on! (The hurricane season has a lot to answer for!)
After the Caribbean I sailed to the Chesapeake Bay in the USA where the boat was hauled and painted. I then left for Key West via the Intracoastal waterway, which is basically a 1500 mile long inland canal. I did most of this solo – not recommended – only 30/40 miles per day – anchoring most nights – a lot of work particularly in November when it was freezing cold.
Key West is a colourful, lively place. “A good run ashore” is the term used by seamen!
From Key West to Cuba
The trip from Key West to Cuba was only 90 miles – no problems, but prior to leaving I had to register with the US Coast Guard (failure to do so would be vessel forfeiture – up to 250,000 USD fine and ten years in prison) who gave me various leaflets. Wow, I thought, what century are we in!
My 6 week stay in Cuba was both interesting and educational. The people are very open and generous despite being poor, compared with UK standards. They have a beautiful country of which they are very proud and I enjoyed their companionship on many an evening sipping a Cuba Libre. A particular memory is anchoring one night in a small cove miles from anywhere when some fisherman arrived alongside and asked if I liked lobster. Only one answer to that! So 5 lobsters later, in exchange for some cold beers and a few tins of tomatoes, I was at peace with the world.
After Cuba I made the short trip to the Bahamas – nice to be back among my old friends who made me very welcome. In fact so welcome that I stayed there for a year!
In April 2002 I sailed to Fort Lauderdale and was fortunate to have a friend who has a house with its own dock. It was here that I prepared the boat for the return crossing via Bermuda and the Azores.
I was intending to sail solo but while in the Bahamas I met a lady boat owner who volunteered to come with me to gain experience, as she was going to do the crossing the following year.
The trip to Bermuda was a little rough at times but not a problem. However, we stayed in Bermuda too long! By the time we left the weather was rough and 20 miles out I ripped the mainsail and had to return to have it fixed. This meant I was then weather-bound, along with 12 other boats, for quite a while. Eventually we sailed, but only to run into extreme weather and all 12 boats put back.
Amongst a Pod of Whales
The long awaited passage to Flores in the Azores was a pleasure. Particularly as one day we found ourselves amongst a pod of whales. Very spectacular, but rather frightening as one swipe of their tail and Happy Dancer would no longer be happy! I switched the engine on to let them know I was there and kept my fingers crossed!
The Azores Islands are very beautiful particularly Flores – in fact one of the boat owners liked it so much he actually bought a house there.
The last leg of the voyage – Punta Delgada to Viana de Costello in Portugal – was accomplished without incident except, when arriving, we were hit by a ferocious gust which didn’t do the genoa any good!
After leaving Vianna I cruised the Portuguese and Spanish coast before returning to Gibraltar, my starting point.
Reflections on the Voyage
The people I met were the high point, both the local people and my fellow liveaboard cruisers who are an exceptional group of people willing to give advice and help at all times. I spent many an evening on board their boats having dinner and they on mine.
One act of generosity that took me by surprise was in Deltaville, Virginia in the US. I asked in the local hardware store for an item that they didn’t have. The shop owner then volunteered that the other store 5 miles down the road might have it. When I informed him that I was on foot he promptly gave me the keys to his expensive car. I found the people in Virginia, the Carolinas, and Georgia to be exceptionally friendly.
Countries visited: Portugal, Spain, Gibraltar, Canary Islands, St Lucia, Martinique, Dominica, Guadaloupe, Antigua, Nevis, St Kitts, Eustatius, Saba, St Martins, Tortola BVI, St Johns USVI, St Thomas USVI, Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, Bahamas, Florida, North and South Carolina, Virginia – Chesapeake Bay, Key West Florida via Intracoastal Waterway, Cuba, Bahamas, Florida, Bermuda, Azores, Portugal, Spain, Gibraltar.
What am I doing today?
Nowadays I still live on the boat and quietly cruise the Med. So if anyone out there wants to join me for a while get in touch!!
I started out to achieve a dream but ultimately found that by definition a dream must always belong to the future.
Published
Article supplied by www.giddylimits.co.uk